Resource Guarding

[Kathleen Oetgen]

Hello everyone!
I am brand new to this forum. I was directed here by a very helpful person named Molly from another thread.
This is going to be rather lengthy - sorry!
I have a 10 month old English Springer Spaniel named Peggy. In most regards, Peggy is a wonderful dog. With the glaring exception that she guards her food and items precious to her.
The rest of our family is comprised of my husband and I, our three kids (ages 7,5 and 3) and our 9 year old yellow lab (Buster).
Peggy showed her first signs of guarding when I casually approached her while she was chewing on a rawhide. This was about 2 months ago. She froze and starting growling at me. This behavior would continue, but we just left her alone when she was chewing on a bone. We feed the dogs in separate rooms because Buster (the older dog) is a very casual eater, and eats at this leisure. Peggy, on the other hand, is a very quick eater and would go after Buster's food if available. Peggy is gated into the kitchen and family room only. So we put Buster's food in the kid's play room. Occassionally, the gate would get left open and Peggy would escape and go right for Buster's food. At about the same time, 2 months ago (maybe a little more), she started growling and snapping at me when I went to either move her or Buster's food.
I immediately called my vet for a recommendation for a trainer. There was no way I was willing to allow a vicious dog to live in my house with three little kids. So I hired a trainer ($$$ ouch), who came to our house over the course of 8 weeks and worked with me and Peggy. Peggy is making progress on a lot of levels. We are using a Gentle Leader with her and she is amazingly well behaved when wearing it. She is fairly obedient regarding sit, down, stay - but only when I have a treat in my hand. We have been working on 'leave it', which she gets some of the time. Peggy has been eating exclusively out of our hands for the past two months. And we are trying to adhere to the NILIF program.
I would say that she is growling and snarling at us less, but not entirely over it. I told this story on another forum, and will repeat it here.
Last night my daughter (7) was eating dinner at the kitchen counter. Peggy jumped up and grabbed half of it out her hand. When I pulled her down off the counter, she darn near bit my had off.
She has never broken skin, but has held my hand in her mouth, I guess as some kind of warning.
Well, long story short, my time with the trainer is over, and I can't afford to re-up. Not that I would, I think my confidence in her was shattered at our last meeting when she suggested an e-collar. I thought that would be somewhat counter-productive for an aggressive dog. When she left she just said, 'keep it up'. Well, I've got alot here that I'm 'keeping up' and I'm not sure that I'm doing the right thing - or in the right order. I've looked at many of the articles posted here written by Renee and they seem to be along the lines of what I've been working on, with a few variations.
I'd like to get her from eating out of our hands - and I think that the method outlined in the article about resource guarding might do it, so I'll start that immediately. We are also working on 'leave it', and the basic sit, down, stay business. From my reading here, it seems I need to introduce a 'drop it', as well. For now, if she has something I want, I give her a treat in exchange, and that generally works. But, for now, the only things she gets are an occassional sock or toy left behind from the kids. She hasn't had anything other than a tennis ball or soft toy since we began her training. I guess the idea is to work up to more valued items eventually. I'd like for the poor dog to get a bone someday :(
I guess what I need from you guys is some advice and encouragement. Also - if anyone sees anything here that I'm doing horribly wrong.
The thing is, on good days she's the most beautiful dog in the world. But, on days when she snaps at me, I seriously consider ways to part. I am working so hard at this, but when she 'relaspes' it really breaks my spirit and makes me feel like throwing in the towel.
I'm sorry this was so long - and even so I'm sure I've left out very important parts.
Any advice is greatly appreciated - or any success stories even more so :D
Thanks,
Kathleen

[Krysta Smith]

Hi Kathleen!!

I know how you feel!! I'm going through the same thing with Lola right now, although it's only with high value treats- like bones. I've got a stuffed bone sitting in the cupboard and she can't have it because that is one of the things she growls over. Whenever she growls at me I feel like a failure because I've tried to prevent all this from happening. One of the mistakes I've made has been to give Lola a treat or bone for her to chew and then taking it away so she doesn't eat the whole thing. I think that's the main reason all this came about. So I cut up all her treats into chunks she can eat without me having to take it away. I've got a similar post that Renee has responded to, it's called Food agression getting worse. A lot of it is about the leave it and drop it commands. You have to exchange everything with something more valuable and do it evertime you get the chance. One of the big things is to never let Peggy do what you don't want her to, so (as Renee told me)- if she growls while she's chewing a rawhide then she doesn't need to have a rawhide. I give Lola healthy edibles and she hasn't started guarding those yet, so that's mainly what I give her to chew on, along with her kong. She started becoming possesive of her kong when all this started and after working with her for quite a while I am pretty confident that she won't growl when I come near her. (She'll usually drop it and get up because she thinks I've got a treat for her :rolleyes:) I'm still wary of approaching her if she doesn't get up though, so I try to make sure I've always got a treat handy, just in case. It can take awhile to see improvements, so just keep working with her and practicing drop it and leave it as many times as you can. Start out with low value things and work your way up. Good luck!!

[Kathleen Oetgen]

Krysta,
Thanks for your post. It's funny, Peggy will do the same thing. When I catch her with something she's not supposed to have, I usually don't have a treat on me, so I'll have to go to the kitchen. She drops whatever she has and goes to the kitchen with me because she knows she's going to get something good. Then we go in together with another treat to retrieve the item.
The most troubling thing, like you said, is just not being sure when she's going to growl or snap. I've found myself getting comfortable with it when she's having a good stretch of behavior, only to be suprised by something I didn't think would cause a problem.
I've read alot of the articles posted by Renee, and I think I'm going to go back to the beginning with Peggy.
Good luck to you as well!
Thanks,
Kathleen

[Renee Premaza]

Hi Kathleen!

Welcome to this wonderful website. I'm very happy that you've asked for help, because this is a serious problem, especially since you have some very young children.

You mentioned that Peggy "is fairly obedient regarding sit, down, stay - but only when I have a treat in my hand."

Yesterday I posted a response to Judy Vegter entitled, " Using Food As Lures Vs. Using Food As Rewards." Please read that post because it will explain why she is dependent on seeing those treats before she follows your cues.

Because Peggy seems to have developed a sudden change in her behavior, I would strongly urge you to have her completely checked over by your veterinarian. When any sudden change in behavior occurs with dogs, you've got to check them out to make sure there's no medical reason that might be causing the change. Here are some medical tests you might want to have your vet run for you: urinalysis, Complete Blood Chemistry (CBC), Lymes Disease Test, a 6 panel Thyroid Test which should be sent to either Michigan State University or Dr. Jean Dodds at Hemopet for results.

Many dogs begin to guard food and objects during adolescence because we humans tend to grab things out of their mouths all the time when they're puppies. I always tell my clients to play lots of exchange games during puppy's early days and beyond to build trust so that the dog doesn't wind up thinking that someone will take something from him anytime he has a bone, or valued item.

You said, "We have been working on 'leave it', which she gets some of the time. Peggy has been eating exclusively out of our hands for the past two months. And we are trying to adhere to the NILIF program."

Most dogs get LEAVE IT pretty quickly. I don't know how you've been taught to play this game, but if she's not responding to it well, maybe you need to up the value of the reward you're giving her. Also, teach her to look directly in your face when you tell her to leave it. Reward her ONLY if she makes eye contact. When you start re-training leave it, hold the treat out for her to leave, close your hand when she goes for it, and then tell her to LEAVE IT. She'll work at the treat, but you need to click your tongue or whistle to cue her to look up at you. When she does make eye contact, reward her with a treat that comes from behind your back, or a bait pouch, or anywhere else you can produce it quickly but that hasn't been in her view. I watch my own clients carefully when they first play the game, and people usually make the mistake early on of being so anxious to give the treat that they move their other hand too quickly. This causes the dog to watch for the treat to appear, rather than to make eye contact. Be careful of the cues you're giving the dog when you play LEAVE IT. Also, NEVER give the dog the LEAVE IT treat! If she should get it because she's faster than you, just go to the next round and don't worry about it, like if you place the treat on the floor and you're too slow in stepping on it before she gets it. Try to figure out why she's not responding to leave it quickly.

Eating out of your hands is fine, but IMO she should have come further than this in that 2 month period. Eating out of your hands is not going to be a cure-all for food aggression. If you read the article, A SOLUTION FOR FOOD AND OBJECT GUARDING, there is a pretty good protocol to follow where you start out placing one kibble in her bowl at a time, and then you gradually build up to putting more food in the bowl while you desensitize her to your moving around her, moving your hand towards the bowl, etc. You might want to purchase the book called, MINE, by Jean Donaldson. It's available at www.dogwise.com Possibly the protocols she recommends might be good for you too. Work cautiously. When doing this sort of training, it's best not to have any distractions going on. You don't want to lose focus or it could mean getting bitten.

NILIF is crucial. The stricter your NILIF program is, the better. You cannot one day be strict and another day not adhere to your program. This will confuse Peggy. I would hope that Peggy is NEVER allowed up on furniture. I would also recommend that she not be allowed in the kitchen area during any mealtime. You can keep her near the kitchen so that she doesn't feel isolated, but I would tether her to prevent any further incidents such as the one you've described with your daughter. Now... speaking about your children:

I am very concerned about the fact that your kids are so young, and that you have a food/object guarding dog. Young children cannot be expected to always follow mom's instructions on how to behave with the dog. Kids like to eat crackers while they're walking around the house. What happens if a child drops a piece of food on the floor and then reaches down to get it when Peggy decides it belongs to her? I would worry that Peggy might try to bite the child. I'm sure you've given lots of thought to this, but the safety of your children is extremely important.

You said, "The thing is, on good days she's the most beautiful dog in the world. But, on days when she snaps at me, I seriously consider ways to part. I am working so hard at this, but when she 'relaspes' it really breaks my spirit and makes me feel like throwing in the towel."

Two things could be going on here. First, there is a learning curve when dogs are being rehabilitated. Some regressions can be expected. I experienced them also when I rehabbed my own food/object guarder, and I know how disappointing it can be. Secondly, if you experience some good days and it seems like suddenly she goes back to square one, this again might be an indication of a medical problem.

If you have any questions about what I've written, please don't hesitate to ask. I hope this post was helpful to you :-)

[Kathleen Oetgen]

Renee,
Thank you SO much. Your post is incredibly helpful, and I've already printed out 5 of your articles regarding resource guarding, leave it, drop it, etc.

I think the most important question for me to ask at this stage in the game, especially of you, is: Can she be rehabilitated? Honestly. I really love this dog. I don't want to give up on her. But if I am only inviting disaster, I'd like to know that. I don't want this to come down to her biting a child. I wouldn't describe her as vicious, but decidedly unpredictable. For now, I'm simply not allowing the situation to occur. The kids are NEVER alone with her. But, eventually, I'd like them to be able to be. I honestly can't live forever having to watch her, and the kids, like a hawk. If your honest opinion is that I will never be able to trust her, then I will have to begin looking for a suitable home for Peggy. I don't know if that's possible, but I can research through the English Springer Rescue Assoc. You can't imagine how this is tearing me apart.

When she does interact with the kids, she is always sweet. She plays fetch and tug very nicely. She chases them around the backyard and they laugh and she's happy.

I will schedule an appointment with the vet for early next week to have the tests you recommend.

I am willing to do whatever it takes to remedy this, assuming it can be remedied. I truly love Peggy. And I feel responsible for her.

Thank you so much for your advice.
Kathleen

[Renee Premaza]

Hi Kathleen!

I just wanted you to know that resource guarding can be a problem when young children are in the home. You are very committed to your dog, and I applaud you for that. Sounds like you're willing to do the training and you're willing to manage her environment. You will have to be the judge of how she's doing as time goes on.

Let us know how her tests come back. Hopefully, there won't be any medical issues. If you find that she "relapses" too often, then I would look for another trainer who is experienced in this to help you. You'll have to judge how things are going.

Keep in touch! Good luck.

Renee,
Thank you SO much. Your post is incredibly helpful, and I've already printed out 5 of your articles regarding resource guarding, leave it, drop it, etc.

I think the most important question for me to ask at this stage in the game, especially of you, is: Can she be rehabilitated? Honestly. I really love this dog. I don't want to give up on her. But if I am only inviting disaster, I'd like to know that. I don't want this to come down to her biting a child. I wouldn't describe her as vicious, but decidedly unpredictable. For now, I'm simply not allowing the situation to occur. The kids are NEVER alone with her. But, eventually, I'd like them to be able to be. I honestly can't live forever having to watch her, and the kids, like a hawk. If your honest opinion is that I will never be able to trust her, then I will have to begin looking for a suitable home for Peggy. I don't know if that's possible, but I can research through the English Springer Rescue Assoc. You can't imagine how this is tearing me apart.

When she does interact with the kids, she is always sweet. She plays fetch and tug very nicely. She chases them around the backyard and they laugh and she's happy.

I will schedule an appointment with the vet for early next week to have the tests you recommend.

I am willing to do whatever it takes to remedy this, assuming it can be remedied. I truly love Peggy. And I feel responsible for her.

Thank you so much for your advice.
Kathleen

[Kathleen Oetgen]

Renee,
Thank you. I have contacted Peggy's breeder and she insists that Peggy's parents show no signs of aggression, and the littermates she's been in contact with have had no problems. Assuming her honesty, I'm guessing it's not genetic. I will let you know the test results, and hopefully we can rule out a medical problem.
If this is a behavior we fostered in Peggy - I suppose we can unteach it.
I have gathered the information available here (your articles and advised research) and will create my own training program for Peggy.
Thank you so much,
Kathleen

[Kathleen Oetgen]

Hi - Here's an update on Peggy:
I took her to the vet earlier this week and he ran the battery of tests recommended by Renee. They all came back normal :D
So now we know she's just a brat :wink:
I'll keep you posted with her progress.
Thanks!
Kathleen

[RubysMom]

Hi Kathleen -
I can certainly sympathize with you as I have had some of the same challenges with my Ruby. She is not the least bit guarded with toys, however some food treats and her food dish have been great sources of anxiety for her.

She will stand over her dish, head down and the lip will curl and she'll snarl and growl if you get anywhere near her. However, if you leave her alone she will either lay down and wait for you to come back - or even come and see where we are so she can get that darned growl in! For reasons beyond me (maybe it goes back to claiming the kill or something) at times she needs to have a big show over her meal.

We had a behaviour specialist come in a few times and she was quite concerned to the point she wanted to prescribe a Prozac type drug for her. I wasnt sure that I wanted a stoned out dog for the other 23.5 hrs in the day so we didnt proceed on that front.

A couple of things that DID have success though - we got a Rubbermaid stepstool and cut out holes for her dishes which elevated them about 4-5" off the ground, which I guess leaves her a little less unprotected - seemed to help (as did bringing her dishes into the kitchen from the laundry room). And the other thing suprised me the most (after a fairly hefty consulting bill) - the menu! We are giving her Natural Balance dry kibble but added about a tablespoon or so of canned food one day..shock and silence of a meal quickly consumed! Another time I added a few bits of carrot, another time a few spoons of rice or a piece of cheese. Who knew I had a food critic??!!

Now Im not saying we dont still have our moments with this, and (like you) are still reading and trying and practicing and hoping - and I still have a lot of trouble with bones or special cookies (and who KNOWS what makes them special to her?!) but if its any consolation I share your concerns and lets not give up ok?
:tup:

[Renee Premaza]

Hi Donna!

>>We had a behaviour specialist come in a few times and she was quite concerned to the point she wanted to prescribe a Prozac type drug for her. I wasnt sure that I wanted a stoned out dog for the other 23.5 hrs in the day so we didnt proceed on that front.<<

Actually, Prozac doesn't really have this quite an effect on the dog. It does help keep them feeling calmer. However, you might want to use a product that is much more natural, and I can tell you that it works very well with dogs that are a bit up-tight about things. It's called, "Dog Appeasement Pheromones", aka DAP. This is a product that comes in a dispenser much like the Glade Air Freshners. It's filled with hormones that a mother dog releases when her puppies are nursing in order to keep the pups calm while they're feeding. The dispenser is plugged into a wall outlet in a room where the dog spends much of its time. Once the unit is plugged in, it may have an immediate effect, it might take a few days or even a few weeks to have an effect on the dog. A couple of my own clients didn't see any changes in their dogs until after they purchased their first refill. I've seen wonderful results with aggessive dogs, dogs with separation anxiety, and hyper dogs. You can get the DAP dispensers at Petsmart, but it's much cheaper to buy it directly online. The trade name is called, "The Comfort Zone." Check out www.petedge.com to purchase it.

If you go to our articles section, you might benefit by reading the article called, "A Solution For Food and Object Guarding." If you follow the protocols recommended, it may help improve your dog's guarding behaviors. Also, you might want to purchase a book called, "MINE" by Jean Donaldson at www.dogwise.com

Hope this helps!

Hi Kathleen -
I can certainly sympathize with you as I have had some of the same challenges with my Ruby. She is not the least bit guarded with toys, however some food treats and her food dish have been great sources of anxiety for her.

She will stand over her dish, head down and the lip will curl and she'll snarl and growl if you get anywhere near her. However, if you leave her alone she will either lay down and wait for you to come back - or even come and see where we are so she can get that darned growl in! For reasons beyond me (maybe it goes back to claiming the kill or something) at times she needs to have a big show over her meal.

We had a behaviour specialist come in a few times and she was quite concerned to the point she wanted to prescribe a Prozac type drug for her. I wasnt sure that I wanted a stoned out dog for the other 23.5 hrs in the day so we didnt proceed on that front.

A couple of things that DID have success though - we got a Rubbermaid stepstool and cut out holes for her dishes which elevated them about 4-5" off the ground, which I guess leaves her a little less unprotected - seemed to help (as did bringing her dishes into the kitchen from the laundry room). And the other thing suprised me the most (after a fairly hefty consulting bill) - the menu! We are giving her Natural Balance dry kibble but added about a tablespoon or so of canned food one day..shock and silence of a meal quickly consumed! Another time I added a few bits of carrot, another time a few spoons of rice or a piece of cheese. Who knew I had a food critic??!!

Now Im not saying we dont still have our moments with this, and (like you) are still reading and trying and practicing and hoping - and I still have a lot of trouble with bones or special cookies (and who KNOWS what makes them special to her?!) but if its any consolation I share your concerns and lets not give up ok?
:tup:

[RubysMom]

Thanks Renee...this DAP sounds like an excellent idea and certainly worth a try. (I'll also take a look at the reading you mention as well - I think the "Mine" article sounds familiar)
Questions on the DAP - should we put it in the vicinity of her food dish? Does it have any side effects or effects on humans? Lastly, is this something she would need for all time or something she will eventually get past?
THanks for your help here!

[Renee Premaza]

Hi Donna,

Here's an additional link for the DAP Dispenser and also the DAP Spray. This site seems to be quite competitive in its pricing. They also have the same product for cats, called Feliway. Here's the link:

http://www.discountpetdrugs .com/feliwayanddap.html?

Keep in mind this is NOT going to prevent guarding behavior. However, it might lessen it as she will be feeling a lot calmer. NILIF also helps to calm dogs. I would place it in the room where she spends most of her time. If she is nervous along walks or at any other time, you could get a bandana and use the DAP spray by spraying the bandana before putting it on her. You don't spray the dog! The spray has about 1 hour lasting effect. I use the spray in my group classes and the dogs are soooo much easier to train. I spray the pant-legs of all the humans.

I honestly don't know if the dog will need the DAP diffuser for life. I would think that with behavior modification training and the DAP the dog will calm down and learn. I would give it at least 6 months before discontinuing it. If you were to see any change in her behavior once you unplugged it, then you would know you'd have to keep it plugged in. Sometimes it takes awhile for it to have an effect, so it could work in reverse too.

Keep us updated on how things are going. Work slowly and DON'T push her past her threshold where she'd become reactive. If you're working on food guarding, you've got to be very careful not to trigger that response again. That's the way she'll learn not to do it. You're building trust with the exercises in both my article and the book I recommended. Good luck!

BTW, I was called out today to work with a gorgeous Chihuahua who just last night bit the 5 year old child in the lip 'cause she tried to remove a container of take-out ribs from the coffee table. If you have kids, SUPERVISE, SUPERVISE, SUPERVISE. If you have a food/object guarding dog, MANAGE, MANAGE, MANAGE!

[Casey Laurie]

If I may offer a suggestion as well?
If/when she gets things like rawhide or chewy things...dogs do need to chew...see if a less dense chew will fit the bill for her. I say this because we have noticed something about our dog Rusty. The bigger the prize, the more anxious he becomes, and the more likely he is to act out.
This has less to do with value and more to do with the time it takes to consume it because of its size. I started out with rawhide bones, and he just got nasty about it. He snarled at everyone who was within 6 feet of him while he had them. Those went away quickly. Now all I ever give him are the thinnest of rawhide chips. They can be large and wide, but need to be very very thin, almost bendable..in fact, bendable is the best. THey don't last long, but they produce no growling at all unless it's one of the kids plopping down right next to him and they didn't notice he had anything, or the cat passes to close. He'll get a little growly with me or my husband, but it's a different sort of growl..one that means he wants to play. We can now play tug with the rawhide chips, and toss them for him to chase.

PS: We also put these types of things on a schedule. There are only certain times of day that they can have chews, and those are scheduled quiet times.

[Kathleen Oetgen]

Donna,
Thanks. It's always nice to know that there are others out there sharing the same problems.
I read several of Renee's articles and put the advice into action, and Peggy is doing remarkably well. She hasn't growled or snapped at us in I can't remember how long. I think the thing that is helping us the most is 'leave it' and 'drop it'. She has learned those commands and the opportunity for her to snap at us just isn't there anymore.
We are still on top of her like the white on milk, because of the kids. I still don't feel like I can trust her alone with them (or rather I can't trust them to be alone with her). I doubt I ever will. But, she has made progress and I'm very encouraged.
Now if we could just tackle the other 100 obnoxious puppy behaviors, we'd be in great shape. (Like re-lanscaping the back yard by removing whole bushes, or jumping up on the counters and pulling things off the refrigerator - uurrggghhh).
Good luck to you. There is light at the end of the tunnel. I am remaining hopeful about Peggy, whereas a month ago I was considering giving her up.
Thanks,
Kathleen

[Monika Lisak]

Hello,

I have a similar problem but food aggression with my other 2 dogs and starting with me, I have 3 dogs and the oldest who is two and a half used to be very generous with her treats and food however since my second pup came along and started stealing from her she has become very aggressive when she eats or has a treat I have now put her in a separate room when she is eating and the other girls aren't around as much, but even if she sees one from 10 feet away she starts to growl and snap in fear of losing what she has, but it has gotten to a point where she won't even let me come near her now, i know it's a fear of losing what she wants after being stolen from for so long how do i fix this problem now??

I don't want them to fight anymore and I definately do not want to get snapped at, by the one dog who has been nothing but gentle and quiet her entire life

can anyone help?

[Kathleen Oetgen]

Hi everyone,
I thought I should check in and give you an update on Peggy.
She is doing very well. Over the past 2 months we have had only 2 incidents. One was when she got a bag of liver treats off the counter. That was interesting. I finally got it away from her using leave it with a treat to give her. That was just to get the empty bag back.
The other was when she was at the dog sitter's (we were out of town last week) and the sitter tried to move her bowl while she was eating (a no-no that I explained to her).
She is otherwise doing very well.
Bad news about her big brother Buster. He went to the vet today and was diagnosed with arthritis (as I suspected). He's been put on Rimadyl, we'll keep our fingers crossed.
Thanks to everyone for their support, advice and encouragement. We are working hard and muddling through :-D
Thanks,
Kathleen

[Renee Premaza]

Hi Monika!

There is a wonderful article in this month's issue of the Whole Dog Journal. The article is written by a very well-known trainer Pat Miller and is called, "The Bowl Game." She gives some very simple protocols to follow to desensitize and countercondition a dog who guards food from another dog. To subscribe, you can call (800) 829-9165 or visit their website at:

whole-dog-journal.com

Each month, you'll find truly wonderful articles to read, some about behavior, some about veterinary and health issues and some on nutrition. For your situation though, this month's issue talks specifically about your problem.

Hello,

I have a similar problem but food aggression with my other 2 dogs and starting with me, I have 3 dogs and the oldest who is two and a half used to be very generous with her treats and food however since my second pup came along and started stealing from her she has become very aggressive when she eats or has a treat I have now put her in a separate room when she is eating and the other girls aren't around as much, but even if she sees one from 10 feet away she starts to growl and snap in fear of losing what she has, but it has gotten to a point where she won't even let me come near her now, i know it's a fear of losing what she wants after being stolen from for so long how do i fix this problem now??

I don't want them to fight anymore and I definately do not want to get snapped at, by the one dog who has been nothing but gentle and quiet her entire life

can anyone help?